Many takeaways from this video. The police should have shot this guy long before he had an officer on the ground in the middle of the street. At one point you see the cop shooting him, it failing and him turning and trying to run. He should have been emptying his mag instead of yelling at him. He could not have stopped shooting. They are supposedly trained to not panic in a situation like this. Easy to say I know. But these are the people who have the power over your life and are trusted with protecting you. You have to wonder if this officer had been trained on a failure to stop drill.
It’s scary to think about. One hit from that blade is almost certain to at the least maim you for life. You are looking at a very deep wound severing nerves etc. Maybe a lost limb. I’ve seen machete wounds to the head because I am the kind of sicko that goes to bestgore dot com. ( don’t go to that site unless massive amounts of gore don’t bother you) and there are no small machete wounds when those wounds are made with intent to hurt.
I also can’t help to assume a lot of it was the SJW policies of the L.A. higher ups and the fear the cop had of backlash that would come from having to end one of the protected class. Either way that was not some mighty fine police work on his behalf.
If you are new to self defense and just started to carry concealed and watching and reading this Do not let some one get that close to you if they are coming at you with a blade of any size and with intent.
I was digging though my stuff and I had forgotten that my Advantage Arms Glock 19 .22LR conversion kit came with such a nice case that has custom cut foam.
It looks like the kits now come with a little range bag instead of this hard case. While the case is pretty cool, a little range bag would be more practical. You don’t really want to be stuffing a dirty kit into the foam, as that would dirty up the foam.
Initially when I got the kit I planned to have the same night sights as on my carry guns installed. Later I heard it was suggested against installing steel sights in the aluminum slide of the .22 kit. After using it for a while, it became apparently that it was a good choice to have the adjustable Glock sight as you could adjust it for what ever particular ammunition you are using.
The magazine is a single stack 10 round capacity. It is disappointing to have such a big mag hold so few rounds.
To have the barrel threaded 1/2×28 it has to have a threaded adapter attached to the end. This prevents removing the barrel for field stripping or cleaning. Not a problem, just makes cleaning a little more awkward.
The ejector slides in the upper and has a hook that latches on to the barrel. When you reassemble this slide after cleaning, you will need to hook this extractor over a notch on the barrel. Easier to do than I can explain it.
After owning this for some years, I’ve not used it much.
I’ve not tried very many different brands of .22 in it, so I can’t say I’d have this issue with all of them, but the old cheap .22 I had would gum the kit up pretty quick and it would stop extracting reliably until it was cleaned.
Years ago I had a thread on Gemtech M4-02 suppressor and I tried that on this kit for a few rounds. The M4-02, being a 5.56 silencer, was too heavy for this kit. That weight caused excessive headspace and it would not reliably fire. I don’t believe this would be an issue with a lightweight .22 can.
I wanted to have a trainer with the same trigger and manual of arms as my Glock 19. This does that, and shoots the much cheaper .22 long rifle. But it doesn’t have the same recoil, or weight. Practicing more is great only if you are practicing perfectly. Sometimes shooting .22 can lead to sloppy shooting. You don’t want to be making bad techniques muscle memory.
In the end, I found I would rather just shoot a little less 9mm than shoot a little more .22 for training.
Some years back I was zeroing a thermal scope, and I figured out I needed a 3 inch offset at 25 yards. This was the zero necessary for the rifle due to the massive height over bore with the thermal optic. Unfortunately, when I would look at a target though the thermal scope, the whole paper target would be the same temperature, and I wouldn’t be able to tell where to aim.
What I did was tape a quarter to the paper. The metal of the quarter was a very noticeable different temperate than the target paper, and that allowed me to zero. Once I was make the appropriate adjustments. I moved the quarter to a fresh part of the target and set up a Shoot-N-C patch below it to check this zero.
As you can see above, I was impacting where I wanted to be. If I recall correctly, that was a 3 shot group.
Now some thermal scopes are sensitive enough and high enough resolution that you can tell the markings on the paper due to the darker areas soaking up more heat. But if you can not, you can easily do something like tape or glue aluminum foil, or other materials to a target to make it work better with thermal.
I don’t really get much the appeal to the “ghost gun”. A P80 80% “Glock” Frame runs about $160. You can get a Glock frame for about $70. If you wanted to build a “ghost gun” SIG P320, it would cost you about 2-3 times as much as just buying a SIG P320. Similar with AR lowers. If you are looking to hide what you have from the government, don’t forget that ordering a parts kit or an 80% and having it mailed to your house leave quite the paper trail.
The Glock design has an awesome problem that the AR15 and the 1911 have enjoyed before it. You can build an entire “Glock” with out a single OEM Glock part. That can lead to an issue of reliability. You can find countless discussion online about people having issues with their P80 home built pistols. From junk aftermarket parts, to incorrect manufacturing of the 80% frame. For a person who needs pure reliability, they are best served buy buying the original.
All that said, it is pretty damned cool to make your own gun. If you want to do it. DO IT.
I found a P80 compact size kit for cheap. Personally, I wouldn’t pay full price for one. Not to knock the company or the product, but I am generally not going to pay more than the original for a knock off.
Let stop with the opinionated discussion and get to the product. This is not a full set of instruction. There are plenty of those floating around online.
The box contains:
P80 80% Frame
M3 Drill Bit
M4 Drill Bit
9mm HSS 3 Flute End Mill
Locking Block/Front Rails
P80 Business Card
A card telling you to go online and find some instructions.
The frame comes placed in the jig. The two halves of the jig snap together and point out where material needs to be removed.
Three holes need to be drilled in the frame. You drill each side separately, so that is drilling 6 holes. Took me less than 5 minutes do drill them. There are sections on the top frame, front and back, where material needs to be removed. That makes for 4 tabs to cut away.
There is also a area near the front of the locking block that is filled in. That will need to be cut away. Note how the front of the jig is splayed open. I’ll come back to that.
Polymer80, the company that makes the P80 (Gee whiz, where do they get their names?) suggests milling out these areas using a drill press and an adjustable vise. To do things authentically, I placed the end mill in a drill chuck to do it the way that they suggested. About 25 minutes later (taking it slow to take pictures), I had the material removed. I’ve read and seen video of people just cutting away the material or filing it away in under an hour. If I were to do another (I don’t plan to), I wouldn’t bother milling it. I’d just use some end clippers or side cutters to clip away the bulk of the plastic and then shave it down with a sharp knife or scrapper tool.
Suggestion: If you do decide to mill it. Two things. The jig is rather flexible, it helps to put a couple more clamps on it. My big suggestion is to plunge mill.
Drill chucks are not built to take side loads. Normal milling creates a side load that can cause a drill chuck to come loose. For me, when I tried side milling this frame, the jig was flexing so much I was getting chatter. Set your depth stop for the depth of the cut, and bring the end mill straight down like your were drilling. Bring it back up and move the part to repeat.
Trying to mill out that web inside the frame sucked. This was the slowest part for me. I couldn’t see well what I was doing, and the jig was not tight at the top. I put a clamp on the top of the jig and removed the majority of the material. I ended up using a scraper tool (like a knife) to remove the remaining material.
I didn’t bother to cut the tabs flush, as it seemed to be indicated that it was unnecessary to do so.
Installing parts into the frame mostly went easy. The pins were very hard for me to insert and I had to use a hammer and punch to seat them. I’m not going to complain because I’d rather too tight than too loose. I don’t plan on removing those pins unless I have too, like if a part breaks.
If you drill the hole wrong, you scrapped the frame. Fortunately, it is really easy to drill them. It is like the old adage that is easier to say than to do, “Don’t be stupid.”
Note how the rails for the slide to ride on are much longer on the P80. Polymer80 says these are hardened stainless. I read many accounts of people having issues with the rails not in alignment. I wonder if they drilled one or more of the holes sloppily and if that caused the issue.
I had no issues with frame alignment, but hand cycling a Glock slide, I hear the recoil spring assembly rubbing against something. I have read of people having issues with this and needing to remove more material than Polymer80 says to in the channel in the frame. I may do that later.
My intent for my P80 frame is to use it with an Advantage Arms .22 kit. But I need to make sure that everything is working right and there are no burrs, sharp edges, etc on these stainless rails as that could tear up the aluminum slide of the .22 kit.
Just a note, the AA kits are not warrantied or guaranteed to work on the P80 frames. I bet it is because no one knows how well a individual P80 frame was built and that the stainless slide rails, if out of alignment, would probably damage the kit.
Making the P80 frame was fun. Took me maybe half an hour between the milling and the deburring. That is not including assembly.
Looking at the dollar value, or for use as a serious fighting gun, I would absolutely NOT recommend the P80. But if you feel like messing around, or making your own custom “Glock” pistol with the parts of your choice, have at it. It is cool to have this option.
I was looking around, and I couldn’t find a single set of instructions on how to set up a Parade Sling. Mind you, a Parade Sling is not a useful marksmanship tool like the loop sling, but when pressed you can still use it as a hasty sling. The purpose of the Parade Sling is just for close order drill. It has been used on the M1 Garand, M14, and the various M16 family of service rifles.
To set up a Parade Sling you will need a Web Sling.
The green web sling has a M buckle (or “sling slider) sown into one end and a metal crimped on tip on the other. Often these tips will come off over time. You will also need the J hook and sling keeper. The sling keeper is sometimes called a “sling compression fitting”.
These slings have come in multiple lengths and materials. From cotton to nylon. I have seen black aftermarket ones that function fine, but have sub-par stitching.
Slide on the J hook with the J facing the M buckle. The stitched end of the webbing should be on the opposite side as the J hook.
Run the webbing back though the M buckle. The stitched end stays inside.
The distance between the M buckle and the J hook is up to some debate. I remember it being the width of 4 fingers. But I have heard of units using the length of the long side of an ID card, or 4 inches, etc.
Slide the keeper on with the opening side on the same side of the sling as the opening on the J hook.
Clip the J hook onto the buttstock end of your rifle, run the sling though the front sling swivel and back into the keeper.
When properly set up, the J hook and the sling keeper should open to the inside (rifle side) of the sling with the M buckle on the outside.
Often you will see the Parade Sling shown as tight up against a magazine or the pistol grip. On the AR15 this is wrong.
(26) Parade sling. The rifle will have a parade sling for all movements except for Stack Arms and Sling Arms. The rifle sling will be as tight as possible on the left hand side of the pistol grip near the selector. The upper sling keeper will be positioned so the sling does not dangle.
USMC MCRD Parris Island: Drill Manual
The correct way to have a Parade Sling on the M16/AR15 is to have it on the left side, as tight as possible. Running the keeper back toward the buttstock to prevent a dangling loose end.
Longer versions of this sling may be too long to properly set up a Parade Sling on a M4.
If you are using a shorter version of this web sling, the keeper may end up over the mag well or hand guard. Some keepers are tighter than others, and can be hard to close. While I was in, I would push the keeper against the rifle to close it. It was the quickest and easiest way to do it, but it would scratch the rifle.