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Ruger 10/22 Charger Lite Takedown (4935) First Impressions

I picked up a Ruger 10/22 Charger. I had kinda wanted one for a while, and after looking into the cost to rebarrel and put a new trigger in my 10/22 rifle I decided I’d just pick up a Charger.

I splurged and got the takedown model. I’m not sure if this was the right choice, but I like the idea of being able to easily, and toollessly change barrels. So, if some time later, I wanted a shorter barrel, or a 16 inch match barrel, I could switch between them.

Often, online, I’ve seen people lament the new plastic trigger group housings. But I don’t recall every seeing a story of one breaking. The trigger in this Charger is much, much better than the one in my 10/22 rifle. Not great by any means, but not absolutely awful like my old 10/22.

I took my Leupold 3-9x off my old 10/22 and threw it on this rifle. Much to my dismay, I had to max out the elevation adjustment in order to get this gun to be point of aim, point of impact at 25 yards.

I was shooting some old Remington “golden bullet” bulk pack. After the first couple of rounds were fired, when I got the gun zeroed at 25 yards. I fired three rounds touching. I was rather happy until my next group. The rest of the groups today were rather lack luster.

This model comes with the type of extended mag release I like, but the magwell of this charger is tight. The mags don’t easily drop out, and I struggled to insert the old 25 round Butlercreek mags I have. I gave up on trying to use them.

My previous experiences with UTG products have left me thinking very little of them. I tried to keep an open mind when I use the UTG bipod that came with the Charger, but even when I first took it out of the packaging the finish was shoddy and damaged.

But to be fair, it does what it is suppose to do, it works as a bipod. But I quickly decided I’d rather shoot the charger off a rest.

Anyways, I enjoyed shooting it, but I realized I’d like it better with a brace. I need to figure out why the elevation adjustment is maxed out. Shooting it silenced was nice, but the barrel is long enough to make the bulk pack ammo super sonic so this was noticeable louder than a suppressed short barrel .22 pistol.

I ended up just unloading the Butlercreek mags. They didn’t even want to seat correctly in the Charger’s tight magwell.

7 inch can with a 10 inch barrel still made for a larger gun.

Thoughts:

I like it.
I want more mags.
I want a mag loader
It is silly that the 15 round mag is 3 times the size of the 10 round mag, but only slightly smaller than a 25 round mag. Would rather have three 10 round mags or a 25 round mag.
I’d like to have a shorter barrel for silencer use, maybe 4.5 inches or so.
I’d like to have a railed forend for use with a bipod and or laser for plinking.
A brace would really help with consistent head placement with the scope.

Review: Tango Down PR-16A4 Sling Mount

BLUF: Pricy, but it works. An excellent solution to a problem few people care about.

The Tango Down PR16-A4 is a QD sling mount that clamps to the A2 buttstock.

I’ve wanted one of these since the first time I saw one. Might have been over a decade now. It looks like these have been discontinued, so I bought one from a dealer that still had one in stock.

The packaging was very dusty. Must have been sitting on the warehouse shelf for a long time. I think I might have only seen 1 or 2 photos of this on someone’s rifle. I don’t recall if I have ever seen a picture of it in use.

It cost me about $70 shipped. That really feels over priced for what it is. It is two stamped metal sheets, four bolts, 4 riveted in nuts, and a quality QD socket (not pictured).

Installation should be simple, but it is awkward to hold it in place when you get the first couple of bolts in.

It sits near the receiver and gives you a QD socket on each side of the gun.

Having the bolts come up from the bottom makes it much harder to install than if it came in from the top. But that also makes them less likely to catch on anything.

The M16A2 and M16A4 come from a time before we commonly used all manor of modern adjustable quick detach slings. They comes with the standard rifle sling loops on the bottom of the stock and the gas block. Those original sling mounts work great for high power, gravel belly type shooting, they are terrible for modern dynamic combatives.

Usually the solution used for a rifle like the A2 or A4 is the 3-point sling. While they are excellent for carrying the rifle during administrative actions. The strap across the gun can interfere with rapid manipulation of the bolt catch. The design of 3-point slings tend to interfere or make it slow or hard to switch shooting shoulders.

Using a 2-point sling that has the first point attached near the rear of the receiver, and the second rapidly moveable from the handguard to the rear of the receiver (or the sling it self) makes for a sling that works great for administrative carry and can be switched to allow for maximum movement and mobility of the gun.

The Magpul MS4 QDM sling is a good example of such a sling.

I feel that this sling mount, combined with a QD socket forward on the handguard, and a sling like the Magpul MS4 QDM is the best sling option for a rifle like the A2 or A4 that will see constant carrying and rapid movement in fighting. I would have loved to have one of these back when I was in Iraq.

The big downside is that this thing is $70ish. And we are pretty much all moving away from rifles. When I took my Colt AR15A4 out to the range yesterday I saw in the log book that I hadn’t shot it in 14 months to the day.

Not a lot of people are choosing on their own to take the full sized rifle into the fight now. And those that are, are not likely to be trying to buy any little widget to make their live easier.

So this great little widget is not well known, over looked, and just never sold well enough for someone to decide to make a cheaper knockoff.

Oh well, some of these are still out there for the five of us who want one.

AMT Long Slide Hardballer .45 ACP

Over the weekend I got this pristine, in the box AMT Hardballer Longslide. Yes you do recognize that from some where.

The AMT has a 7inch barrel.

Reckon they would still honor that warranty card if I send it in?

So how does it shoot?

Yes, it is reliable. That extra weight and barrel length make it a real pleasure to shoot. To my surprise, the AMT shot the cheapest military grade 230 ball better than 185 grain match loads. Guess it makes sense that they named it the Hard Baller. It was after all designed and tuned to shoot 230 ball.

Above is the 185 gr match
Winchester ranger
federal hi-shock
speer 230 grain ball
remington 230 ball
7 rounds of winchester 230 ball.

All groups shot off a bench with bags at 25 yards.

I have wanted one of these forever and I have to say I am very happy with it.

Colt King Cobra Carry

See, I keep my promises. YOU guys asked for more revolver stuff and me and Colt delivered. I hope you keep in mind the effort Colt has went through to deluge me with wheel guns to satisfy your demands for more, more, more. On and on and on, always with the friggin demands for more 6 shooters, Jesus Harold Christ!!!! Anyway.. There will be even more at the start of 2021. I sure wish I could tell you know what colt has coming out early next year but I can’t. I you are going to be really surprised and happy though.

Anyway, I got this King Cobra Carry today and it is every bit as high quality as the Target King Cobra. Trigger is equal to the target model. Unlike the .38spl Cobra, the King Cobra is chambered in .357 mag. The rubber grips feel a lot better than than the Target Wood grips when it comes to shooting magnum loads. This is for CCW so of course it is tailored for that.

.38 and .357 ammo has become non-existent apparently. I have no idea when I will be able to do a second part accuracy test. Sorry about that. It is what it is and I’m sure you all have experienced the ammo shortage from the recent panic buying. As the Japanese say, Shikata ga nai.

So for now all I can do is show you the goods and ask you to be patient for the shooting portion.

Review: Wheeler Engineering Armorer’s Handgun Sight Tool

BLUF: It is good, but not great. It works, but it isn’t anything special. Other cheaper options will likely be easier and faster to use.

I found my self needing a sight adjustment tool and I was undecided which one to buy. This one ended up being my impulse purchase. I needed to install a front sight into a Sig P320 slide, and I read that using a punch and hammer is strongly recommended against.

Guys in the Army are breaking front sights trying to adjust them:
https://www.psmagazine.army.mil/News/Article/2025261/m17m18-modular-handgun-system-sight-adjustment/

MSRP is about $150ish. I paid about $170 with taxes and shipping. You can likely find it cheaper elsewhere, but I wanted a sight pusher fast and I got this one the day after I ordered it.

It came well packaged in a branded box.

Once you take it out of the packaging, it is a pretty heft unit. Nicely built.

You have two large knurled nuts on the top that you unscrew to remove the top piece to put a pistol slide in the unit.

On the underside of the top piece, you have a height adjustable stop/guide that rests on the top of the pistol slide. It has a concave section for resting on top of 1911 slides, and you just turn it to rest the flats on top of any other type of slide. It can turn easily when there is no pressure on it.

The underside has four thumbscrews to press anodized aluminum clamps against the slide to hold it in place.

You put the slide in the lower, clamp it in place. Set the top of the adjustment tool back on the unit. Adjust the height with the height stopper mentioned previously. Reinstall the knurled nuts, then you can adjust the sight.


This is not hard, but it is not as fast or easy as other sight pushers out there.

I was at my local gun store today and noticed my dealer has one of these sitting on his tool cart. He was also installing some Glock slights today and he was using a different brand pusher instead of this one.

I don’t blame him.


The anodized aluminum pads on the base can scratch or mark up your slide. So you are suppose to tape up your slide first. I never had to do that with any other sight pusher. Not a bad idea though.

Now if you are paying attention, don’t worry. I took it back apart and assembled it correctly before I used it.

The sight pusher section, the black H shaped part, shown in the picture above, can be removed using an Allen wrench and flipped over. There is a part with straight ears for pushing most sights, and a part with slanted ears for pushing sights with angled sides, like you commonly find on a Glock.

Here is one of my minor complaints. You need to use a tool to adjust this tool for use. At $150, they could have drilled a hole one of the meaty metal parts, glued a little magnet at the bottom and set an $0.50 Allen wrench in it, so you would always have one with the tool. Better yet, they could have had a couple of steel indexing pins and a single thumbscrew hold it in place allowing for tool-less switching.

I found the markings for centering the front sight are a great idea, but they are faint on this pusher and I had a hard time seeing them while I used the sight pusher. They show up great in my photos, but at my desk, I struggle to see them.

I wish it had a larger handle. The manual tells you not to put any sort of cheater bar on it, I was tempted to do so. While this is a substantial size, it is still light enough that you need to secure it with one hand while you twist the adjustment spoked handle with the other. I found that kind of awkward. I’ll likely put it in a vise next time I use it.

I doubt this is something you would want to throw in your range bag to take with you in case you need to make field adjustments.

I’m not saying it is a bad product. It does what it is suppose to do. It hold a slide in place with five points of contact and applies pressure to move a sight. It works.

But it is expensive and it could be better and easier to use.

It got the job done.