More than 100 Republican U.S. Representatives signed a letter to U.S. Attorney General William Barr on Wednesday asking him to ensure recent changes to gun-purchase processing will not effectively ban Americans from lawfully exercising their Second Amendment rights.
The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives (ATF) recently changed its rules that formerly allowed contractors to “assist law-abiding Americans” with filling out their National Firearms Act (NFA) forms, which can be complicated and confusing. NFA applications are required for certain firearms such as short-barreled rifles or specifically modified shotguns as well as silencers.
“We need to ensure this process allows Americans to fully exercise their Second Amendment rights,” said Rep. Ken Buck of Colorado. The letter also points out that “the ATF’s actions run contrary to Congressional intent and the Bureau’s previous promises.”
“Allowing these companies to continue serving the public only simplifies the eForms submission process provides an important level of quality control and helps taxpayers overcome technical instability and scaling issues with ATF’s current e-filing system,” the letter explains.
Dave Matheny, the owner of Silencer Shop in Austin, Texas, who supports Congress’s action on the issue, also noted the ATF has been inconsistent with the third-party rules, sometimes excluding them from assisting with filling out any digital forms, which can be filled out and processed faster than paper.
“Third-party processors can help you complete the forms, it can help you submit forms, they can collect your signatures they can do pretty much everything,” he said. “But then [ATF] basically cut third-party processors out and said ‘You can submit on paper, but you cannot submit electronically.”
According to Matheny, the ATF’s NFA application process require lots of time, effort, and money, which means many people can get discouraged in the bureaucratic process and effectively lose their constitutional right to defend themselves. That’s why the contractors were so important.
“What happens is, over time, as these forms get more complex, people go to more and more to third-party processors like Silencer Shop to essentially fill out the paperwork for them,” Matheny explained.
Signatories on the letter included House Minority Leader Rep. Kevin McCarthy and Minority Whip Steve Scalise
It is an electronic sight for 40mm weapons systems.
The Leaf Sight and the unobtainable Eotech Grenade Launcher are the two main passive aiming systems for the Eotech. By passive, I mean you can rapidly aim at multiple distances with out having to mess with the sight settings.
The quadrant sight has to be adjusted for the distance. Same for the PSQ-18, Mepro GLS, that abomination on the MGL, the Spuhr super expensive sight, etc.
This ARDS (I bet you they came up with the acronym before they came up with the name) claims to show you the range the round will impact based off the angle of the weapon. So, you would estimate the range to target, point the weapon at the target, then lift the muzzle until this unit says the same number as your range to target.
I think that is pretty cool. I want one.
BUT. . .
Matbock doesn’t say what type of batteries it uses. We don’t know what the battery life is like. Or how the controls work. Is the “integrated picatinny rail mount” quick detach or not. etc, etc.
I want one, but I’m sure I want to spend the cash to be an early testor.
I really really wanted to like this but it just sucked so bad.
I mean, it provides a capability that nothing else does, but it is so awkward to use I’d rather live with out it.
Part of the problem with equipment like the AN/PSQ-18A is that when you see one for sale, it is often stolen military property. If you see one with the serial number removed, it probably fell of the truck. Now there are legit units out there, but you still are not likely to get any service from Insight should anything break. A short while back I found a unit for sale that I felt comfortable buying.
The AN/PSQ-18A is a day/night sight for the M203 grenade launcher. The night sight being the important aspect as there are very few sights for the M203 that work in darkness.
This sight slides onto and clamps to the barrel of the M203. This might make it one of the most consistent sights for the M203 as there is a great deal of slop and movement between the barrel and the action on one.
This sight is adjustable from 0-400m in 5 meter increments. It has flip up iron sights with tritium inserts for use at night, and it has an IR laser for aiming with night vision. You can take the accessory rail and mount it on the top of the side of the unit to attach an additional visible laser or day optic.
This optic will let you, in total darkness, aim and fire your M203 out to 400m in 5m increments. That is something special.
But, it is large, heavy, awkward, and a pain in the ass to use.
With out batteries, you can still use the optic day or night with the iron sights. The rear sight has two positions, each with an odd design.
One position of the rear sight is a post with a tiny little notch in it. Far too tiny to put the whole front sight in it. The other is a circle with tabs letting you center the front sight and align it vertically with the tabs.
There is a knob on the front bottom of the unit to adjust the range. If the unit is off or unpowered, there is a scale on the side next to the M203 so you can manually see the range.
When you power it on, then is when the cool features become available.
It takes a single AA battery that installs in the front bottom.
Then you can use the selector to turn it on and select which features you want to use.
When turned to day mode, there is an LCD at the back that shows what range the unit is set at. The LCD will flash if the firearm is canted. There is also a green light near the front of the unit that blinks to show if it is canted.
Note how both the green light and the black bar on the LED screen flash when the M203 is canted. If you are using the IR aiming laser, the laser will flash while the unit is canted.
On the right side of the barrel, in the perfect position to hit with a thumb if you are left handed, or your support hand trigger finger if you are right handed is a button to activate the IR laser.
There is a version of this device made for the M320 launcher. It is similar but instead of clamping to the barrel it attaches to a side rail (left side of a weapon). I am told that to use the IR laser on that model you much use a tape switch.
So, this thing seems awesome. The ability to precisely aim your indirect fire weapon day or night with passive or active aiming, what is there not to like.
First, it is bulky, really bulky.
Then, because it is mounted to the barrel, it is really low on the weapon. While you can use it for 0-300m, I was not able to shoulder my weapon and find a way to look though the irons, or an attached optic in any sort of reasonable fashion. Ergonomics were terrible. Now once it was set between 300-400m. That it when I was finally able to use it well. To be fair, that is also past the range the most commonly used sight, the leaf sight, goes out too.
When I took this out to the range to use it, I was going to fire a couple rounds at 50m for fun and to get the feel of it. I could not aim down the sights on the PSQ at 50m. I realized this just was not going to work for me. I feel this sight is only really useful at night or in the 300-400m distance.
My biggest complaint is the adjustment. Having to turn a dial is slow. Going from 100m to 350m zero setting is slow. Even worse, it doesn’t always acknowledge that you made a click. I could make a click adjustment unit would not recognize the adjustment.
I tried to show the issue in this video. Sometimes when I make a single click, it would not recognize the adjustment. Or sometimes when I might make multiple clicks, it would show an adjustment less than what was done.
Now if you are using a M203 at night, with night vision, this would be an excellent tool. But past that, it was just so awkward to use I didn’t even bother trying to shoot with it. I went ahead and sold it off.
I’m a Machinist. I’ve read several times that Machining is the slowest and most expensive way to manufacture a part. In my opinion, hand tools are slower, but I suppose that is beside the point.
3D Printing is a new, “additive”, manufacturing process that can be very cheap. But, it is very slow. Much slower than cutting a part out of a block of material.
There are a number of different types of 3D Printers. Some use vats of resin, other lasers to sinter together materials, and many other designs, but usually when people talk about 3D printing they are talking about FDM printers. A “Fused Deposition Modeling” printer lays down layer upon layer of melted plastic to build up the part.
Your average over the counter 3D printer feeds from a spool of plastic that looks like weed eater trimmer cable. It is a robot controlled hot glue gun. There are a large number of various plastics that can be printed by these types of printers including, ABS, PLA, PVS, Nylon, etc. PLA plastic is the most popular, but some people use ABS for increased strength, or PETG for food safe items, TPU for flexible parts, etc. The various plastics have different benefits and downsides.
FDM printing can be cheap, fast (compared to other forms of 3D Printing), and the wide variety of materials allow you to pick one best suited for what you are doing. But FDM printing tends to be less precise than other forms of printing or manufacturing. Printing parts in layers leave the potential for delamination and makes the parts less durable when under tension. These layer lines prevent smooth vertical surfaces and may require additional work (sanding, smoothing, filler, etc) to creature a smooth finish, when a smooth finish is required.
One of the best things about 3D printing is that you can produce complicated geometry that would be very hard or impossible to make other ways, and you can print parts like springs, hinges, gears, and similar movable components as part of a single print. An early example was printing a adjustable wrench in a single print.
Blah blah blah. You can find the history, and minutia, and more details on 3D printing all over the place online.
I get asked, “What 3D printer should I buy?” First you should ask your self if you really should be buying one?
There seems to be this impression that 3D printing is push a button and get a part. If everything is set up well it is not too far away from that. But lots of work has to be done to get there. Unless you only plan to print up stuff that other people have already designed, or you have your own 3D modeling experience and plan to design your own parts for 3D printing, it is probably not worth getting a printer.
Now if you only planned on printing stuff you found on thingiverse or already know how to do 3D modeling, then it might be worth getting a 3D Printer.
Personally, I tell people to buy a Prusa brand printer. Sure they 3-4 times the cost of many other perfectly good printers, but they are far easier to get running well and have far better support and a community to help you. Every time I run into problems with my printer I kinda regret I didn’t buy a Prusa i3. That said, the size the various Prusa printers can print is much smaller than my Tevo Tornado, so I do like having the larger print capability.
So what were we talking about again? Oh yea, Ghost Guns.
YOU WOULDN’T DOWNLOAD A GUN
Fuck you, I would if I could.
If we were going to make a gun from scratch found at the hardware store, a single shot would be the easiest and fastest to make.
Something that functioned like a bang-stick or a pop-gun could be made rather fast.
I learned about this kit last year, HERE. Single shot firearms are the easiest to make.
After that, an open bolt submachine gun is the easiest to make. Weird how that is. It is easier to make a full automatic only gun than a semi-automatic.
The “Improvised Special Purpose SMG” is suppose to be makeable in 2 hours with 20 dollars worth of supplies.
Open bolt guns can have a fixed firing pin and all the fire control mechanism has to to is release or hold the bolt. Semi-guns are a little more complex.
Humpth, I appear to have wandered off topic.
It is perfectly legal to build your own firearms. What could be more American than making your own guns?
There are some limits to what you can legally build. I’m no lawyer and I can not provide you with legal advise on the matter.
Generally, you can build your own gun for your own use with out a serial number or makers markings. The proverbial “Ghost Gun”.
Big media would have you believe that terrorists and felons are clamoring to make untraceable firearms in their homes. In reality, these guns tend to cost more than a standard firearm, and have plenty of a paper trail. Unless you bought kit somewhere for cash, it can be traced back to you.
IMHO, it makes more sense cost, time, and reliability wise to just pick up a used gun locally for cash in a face to face sale.
But hey, this isn’t about what makes sense, this is about making our own guns.