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3D Printed AR15 Autosear

DISCLAIMER: We did not make this part or know the people who made it. Person who made this video is properly licensed to manufacture NFA components.

“This video is provided by an FFL with proper authority to manufacture machineguns. The FFL has requested they not be named but has approved release of this video.

This is an autosear that functions like a swift link (disconnector manipulation). It is printed in PLA, and was deisgned by FreeMenDontAsk, the same fellow who has done many different printable pistol frames as many are familiar with.

This sear worked issue free for 200 rounds and counting, but is showing signs of wear. “

” It will be shared for educational reference on Deterrence Dispensed various distribution channels once testing is done “

screen shot from video showing the parts.

3D Printed AR15 Autosear ($0.50 of biodegradable plastic) – Reupload due to Reddit bugginess from r/guns

Chatter 20190928

Everything is better with an ACOG.

Had a hard drive fail in my personal computer. Making for lots of annoying delays.

I picked up some Zenitco rails for my AK. They are awesome. Also kicked my ass trying to get them installed. Not quite drop in. I’ll go into details some other time. Lots of time was spent with a hammer ~gently~ fitting the parts.

Previously I’ve told people that a FN SCAR rear sight will not work on an AR15 due to height issues. I’ve had several people since then tell me that I was wrong. Not wanting to put out bad information, I found another SCAR sight to give it a try. I was able to zero this one, but the front sight had to be cranked up rather high. So it is possible. I don’t know if there was something wrong with the previous sight I had, or if it was just tolerance stacking, but it was not possible to zero the other one. Still this front sight is high enough I was a little concerned about it coming out while I was making the adjustment. Might be worth running a taller front sight post if you ever run a SCAR rear sight.

Still, now I know it is possible.

Some of the yahoos over at ARFCOM were implying that shooting a M203 one handed would be impossible, or it would be possible, once, as you would injure your self. I’m pretty sure those are the same “experts” that will tell you that a near miss from a .50 BMG will rip a person to pieces, that a .223 round tumbles end of end in flight, and that the world is flat.

I made up some chalk round reloads with blue chalk. At the end of the range session, a very tired and shaky me taped my self firing off a round one handed.

Note the lack of any yelps of pain or nor any sounds of snapping bones.

I was doing a bunch of AK shooting today. Was shooting right handed and feeling like a badass with the rifle. Uber-competent. When I started doing the left handed AK shooting my confidence was put in check. Left shoulder wasn’t used to the shape of the AK buttstock and was uncomfortable. The great recoil control I had shooting right handed was absent while I was shooting left handed. I don’t even want to admit how slow and awkward the reloads were.

Now I know what I need to work on more.

The P80 I built the other day worked well enough. Only issues came from cases sticking in the chamber of the .22 kit. Due to how the threaded barrel is set up on that, it is a pain in the ass to clean the chamber. I must not have cleaned it well enough the last time I used it some years ago.

Look at that terrible left handed iron sight AK shooting. Slow and rapid fire from 7-50 yards. Look at that shot in the hair line and the one the cheek. At least I figure I shouldn’t get worse with practice.

I was feeling pretty cocky after the right handed slow and rapid fire. I should have taken a picture of my first 5 shots slow fire. At 50 yards with the iron sights I engaged a target like the one shown above. I felt all shaky and slow. For the 5 shots I raised the weapon, quickly got a sight picture, and fired. When I inspected my target, 4 of the 5 were in the T, one just outside it. I was feeling pretty good after that.

Anyways.

I’ve designed a 40mm projectile where I would 3d print the exterior, then fill it with wax for cheap weight. I haven’t made any yet, so I don’t know how it will work out. I worry that the 3d printed exterior might not be water tight enough to keep the molten wax from flowing out. I’ll find out.

Lastly, I just learned about the Hensoldt ZF 3.5-26X56 Riflescope. While it doesn’t have locking turrets or any sort of rotation indicator, it still seems like it would be an ok scope. If one of you were thinking about buying me a Christmas present, keep that in mind.

Follow up on “Goofing off”

Figured I’d share what happened for anyone interested.

Previously, I tried to see if I could print a 40mm projectile for plinking with.

Printed projectile left, straight off the printer, chalk projectile on the right.

Mind you, this printed projectile is hollow, with only 15% infill. Excluding the perimeter, it is 85% air. The thickness of this shells is about .021ish of weak plastic.

I recorded video of someone else firing a shot.

The round is disintegrating in the bore.

The projectile is minie ball shaped. I think it is failing at the cup like bottom, splitting apart. I may try a flat base to see if that works better.

The infill pattern is rectilinear. Sort of like a honey comb, but triangles instead of hexagons. This leaves vertical open columns all the way from the bottom to the top of the printed projectile. I may switch to a different infill pattern. Perhaps something like gyroid.

Picture of various infill patters from all3dp.com

In any event, I found some of the blue plastic caps (windshields) for reloading 40mm, so I will be able to make some proper chalk reloads with those.