I have a little Beamo laser cutter. Someone sent me some Talon grip material to cut for their SIG P320.
I was given a .dxf file for cutting non-skid for the Sig P320 X-Carry. Unfortunately, the pieces appear to be scaled wrong. The DXF imported into my laser cutter at about 10 inches tall. Scaling it down proportionally left the side pieces slightly too large and the front and back pieces way to small.
-sigh- It can never be easy, can it?
The Danish, like us, adopted the Sig P320 pistol:
This Danish P320 is just a slightly modified X-Carry.
I’ve started to grow fond of the P320 series. Mostly because you can easily mess with them and build your own. I still think the Glock is better, but the P320 is ok enough.
When I saw that these Danish marked slides were available, I decided I’d build up one of these guns.
I started with buying the slide. It came in a plain box.
This slide is very similar to a M18 slide, but there is no top loaded chamber indicator. This slide is marked FMI, and is cut for a Leupold Deltapoint PRO/Sig Romeo 1 Pro.
I pulled the parts from my MK18 slide, with the exception of the front sight, for this project. All these parts are easy enough to buy individual with the exception of the rear slide plate. Those seem to be out of stock or generally unavailable right now.
Assembling a P320 slide is straightforward. The rear sight is bolted on though the optics cover plate by bolts that come up though the bottom of the slide. You will have to remove the extractor spring before installation or removal.
The front sight could probably be tapped in with a hammer and punch, but SIG and the US Army reports that people are breaking sights doing that, so it is highly recommended you use a sight pusher.
The X-Carry uses a #8 rear sight, and a #6 front sight. This is the standard set up from SIG. Our M17 and M18 pistols use an #8 and #8.
This picture, found on online, shows three different sight pictures. SIG normally sets up their guns for the third sight picture. The Army requested the M17 set up for the first, a 6 o’clock hold, so that is why the M17 and M18 are set up that way.
With the exception of needing a tool for the front sight, the P320 slide goes together easily.
After you install sights, the extractor and striker assembly slide right into the side. The extractor spring and plunger get depressed to hold the rear slide plate in.
From what I read online, the drop in flat trigger upgrade for the P320 makes the gun look 100% cooler, the trigger pull 1000% , and makes you shoot one million percent awesomer.
My experience is not quite that. I might be the only one out there that prefers the curved trigger.
I’ll show how to assemble a P320 fire control group when I get around to making that second 80% receiver I have.
The X-Carry grip has a different profile that the M18 grip. You can also install a magwel like the one used on the Danish pistol. The Magwell has a tab on the front, and is held on by a screw though the lanyard hole.
This X-Carry frame has an undercut trigger guard, a higher and larger beavertail, as well as a slimmer feeling grip. Trying it side by side with the M18 grip really makes me dislike the M18 grip module.
It looks like SIG might be moving towards making the X line grips more of their standard, and moving away from the M17/M18 like grip.
Note that this grip is not cut for a safety, but you can purchase it cut for a safety, or modify it your self.
Removing the thumb safety was quick and easy. There is a clip on the right side of the safety that slides out. Then both halves of the thumb safety can be pulled apart and out of the gun. I was then about to slide in a Safety Lever Pin replacement, with out having to line anything back up. Took only a couple of minutes tops.
Piecemealing together a P320 is not the cheapest way to get one. If someone wanted to copy the Danish P320, it might have been cheaper to just buy a P320 X-Carry and swap all the parts to the Danish slide.
The P320 isn’t quite as simple as a Glock, but it is still very easy to piece together.
And, you point it at something, work the trigger, and hit it. It is just that boring to shoot.
12036377-06-R Sight Assembly, XRAY3, Night Sight, Front #6, MIM, Green Vial, Green Sleeve, SIG
TRG-320-FLAT-BLK P320 Flat Trigger
1300674-R Pin, Safety Lever
KIT-320X-MAG-Funnel Magazine Funnel, 320 X-Series, Screw
GRIP-MODX-CA-943-M-COY SIG P320 X-Series Grip Shell, Carry, Medium, Coyote
BLUF: It is good, but not great. It works, but it isn’t anything special. Other cheaper options will likely be easier and faster to use.
I found my self needing a sight adjustment tool and I was undecided which one to buy. This one ended up being my impulse purchase. I needed to install a front sight into a Sig P320 slide, and I read that using a punch and hammer is strongly recommended against.
Guys in the Army are breaking front sights trying to adjust them:
MSRP is about $150ish. I paid about $170 with taxes and shipping. You can likely find it cheaper elsewhere, but I wanted a sight pusher fast and I got this one the day after I ordered it.
It came well packaged in a branded box.
Once you take it out of the packaging, it is a pretty heft unit. Nicely built.
You have two large knurled nuts on the top that you unscrew to remove the top piece to put a pistol slide in the unit.
On the underside of the top piece, you have a height adjustable stop/guide that rests on the top of the pistol slide. It has a concave section for resting on top of 1911 slides, and you just turn it to rest the flats on top of any other type of slide. It can turn easily when there is no pressure on it.
The underside has four thumbscrews to press anodized aluminum clamps against the slide to hold it in place.
You put the slide in the lower, clamp it in place. Set the top of the adjustment tool back on the unit. Adjust the height with the height stopper mentioned previously. Reinstall the knurled nuts, then you can adjust the sight.
This is not hard, but it is not as fast or easy as other sight pushers out there.
I was at my local gun store today and noticed my dealer has one of these sitting on his tool cart. He was also installing some Glock slights today and he was using a different brand pusher instead of this one.
I don’t blame him.
The anodized aluminum pads on the base can scratch or mark up your slide. So you are suppose to tape up your slide first. I never had to do that with any other sight pusher. Not a bad idea though.
The sight pusher section, the black H shaped part, shown in the picture above, can be removed using an Allen wrench and flipped over. There is a part with straight ears for pushing most sights, and a part with slanted ears for pushing sights with angled sides, like you commonly find on a Glock.
Here is one of my minor complaints. You need to use a tool to adjust this tool for use. At $150, they could have drilled a hole one of the meaty metal parts, glued a little magnet at the bottom and set an $0.50 Allen wrench in it, so you would always have one with the tool. Better yet, they could have had a couple of steel indexing pins and a single thumbscrew hold it in place allowing for tool-less switching.
I found the markings for centering the front sight are a great idea, but they are faint on this pusher and I had a hard time seeing them while I used the sight pusher. They show up great in my photos, but at my desk, I struggle to see them.
I wish it had a larger handle. The manual tells you not to put any sort of cheater bar on it, I was tempted to do so. While this is a substantial size, it is still light enough that you need to secure it with one hand while you twist the adjustment spoked handle with the other. I found that kind of awkward. I’ll likely put it in a vise next time I use it.
I doubt this is something you would want to throw in your range bag to take with you in case you need to make field adjustments.
I’m not saying it is a bad product. It does what it is suppose to do. It hold a slide in place with five points of contact and applies pressure to move a sight. It works.
But it is expensive and it could be better and easier to use.
It got the job done.