Glock Grip

I was sent this email from an avid Glock shooter:


“Just FYI    For some time I was shooting a thousand rounds a month in Glock model 19s.  At some point perhaps two years ago, shooting became painful, the gun would give me a ‘blood blister’ on the end of my lesser finger.  Very bad on my preferred right hand, some but not as much on my left.  The guns I usually practiced with were two ‘Generation 2’ Glocks which had a cut-out at the front bottom of the grip, supposedly to assist in gripping the magazine for removal.  My finger was rubbing against the edge of the cut-out.  Obviously I had changed my grip.  I’d had a slight slack period in my shooting but had still been gun handling, apparently it had happened then. Because of this, my shooting was not as consistent as previously.
I made of point of positioning my hand so that the tip of the abused finger wrapped further around the grip avoiding that little area of concern.  Held thus, my shooting seemed to improve, a little, but looking back, that may have been only because I was shooting more regularly again.  On every shooting session however, I still had some degree of irritation, pain, or blistering, depending upon how much I remembered, or not, to ‘properly’ hold my gun as I had previously.
During todays shooting session, at one point I noticed rather disgustedly, that my finger had bled on the gun.  I taped my finger and continued my practice.  Today also, I was noticing how the last several generations of Glock magazines for the model 19 seemed to be longer that the first ones.  I had used first generation magazines for a very long time.  These were the ‘squeeze to remove’ baseplate rather than the later ones with the spring loaded button.
Later, at home, I compared an old retired magazine to 3 variations of the newer magazines.  Gripping the unloaded gun, I felt pain in my poor damaged finger while one of the newer magazines was in the gun but not while the older one was in place.  My aging but still curious mind soon discovered that with the newer, longer magazines, all grip pressure from that finger was on the cut-out, but because the older magazine was fractionally shorter, my finger rested on the cut-out and the front of the magazine baseplate which took the pressure from my grip so I was not getting cut from the cut-out..
Two years of frustration, poorer shooting and pain to my finger because Glock changed the length of its magazines.
Note that starting with the Generation 3 Glocks the cut-out is no longer present.  But Glock added finger ‘bumps’ to the grip to lock in the position of the shooters fingers.  These jam my longest finger into the trigger guard and it hurts.  So, like many other Glock shooters, I have had to grind the new ‘improvements’ off of my Generation 3 guns.
Authors note:  Some readers may comment and ask why didn’t I notice that the Generation 3 guns didn’t hurt my finger?  Well, 1.  I rarely shoot them, doing almost all my practice with the older guns and 2.  I may have simply thought that I had a better grip those days shooting them.”
Comment:  Glock “perfection” has changed greatly over the years.  Know that mixing new and old parts may cause issues.  Some of the Gen 4 pistols have different recoil springs cuts then other Gen 4s of the same model.  Extractors, locking blocks, and a great number of small parts have changed over the years.  Magazines have changed from non-drop free to full metal lined mags that drop free when the mag catch is depressed.  Like this shooter found, changing parts in your pistols may have unexpected results.

Q&A 3

This is a Q&A session.  If you have a firearms related question please email it to [email protected]. We will post the your questions anonymously and give you our answers.

1.  Sirs,

A friend and I are working up loads for his hunting rifle and during the discussions a question came up that neither of us have seen addressed. When shooting (right-handed) for group from a bench, with the rifle supported by sandbags at the forearm and butstock, what is the best position for the left hand on the rifle?

Is it important to control the forearm laterally with a hand on the forearm? I recently watched a video showing a rifle with a bipod and butstock monopod being fired with the left hand on the monopod controlling vertical sight movement. The bipod controls the lateral movement but maybe not so much during recoil.

We’d like to read your opinions (and reasons) on this question.

Thanks. We enjoy your site.

Howard:  Normally the forend/handguards are on a rest/sandbags/bipod, and the left hand is used to adjust the rear bag/monopod for elevation.

Sometimes for expediences the left hand is put directly under the stock(often as a fist) and clenched or unclenched to hold up the butt of the rifle.
Just resting the front of the rifle on a rest helps steady the rifle a great deal, but when the rear of the rifle is resting on something as well, the rifle is far more stable.  When using something like a competition bench rest all adjustments are done from the front rest.  However for most of us, the front rest we use(bipod, sandbag, wooden block, backpack, enemy cadaver, etc) is not so adjustable.  So we pivot the rifle on the front rest for left and right, and we lift or drop the buttstock for up and down.  Using a rear rest gives that additional stability, and the left hand(for a right handed shooter) is used to control/adjust that rear rest.
2.  I am trying to help new hunters as well as others to select and purchase the right optics for the type of gun as well as the type of hunting or shooting they enjoy doing. The right equipment is a sure way to be a safe and happy hunter.
Shawn:  For medium to large size game:  For deep woods or anything other then open plains something like a 1-5x.  If you are in an area like out west where you have longer distances, something like a 3.5-10x.  Preference for 10x or under so you don’t have to worry about adjusting parallax because you don’t have time to fiddle with it in the field.  No bigger then a 40mm objective lens as long as the optic is clear, because anything much bigger doesn’t really make anything much bright.  Larger just adds weight and size that makes the rifle top heavy.  Stay away from scopes with friction plate elevation or windage adjustments, you want to be able to zero as precisely as you can.  For varmint hunting, I prefer 12-20 magnification scopes with target turrets with positive clicks with a click value of no less then 1/4 MOA.  Has to be adjustable for focusing and objective lens size doesn’t really matter, go as large as you like.  For long range varminting, scope base and ring selection is just as important as the scope.
Howard:  The problem with picking a scope is that there are so many options and personal preferences.  Thicker reticles can be faster to pick up, but may cover a target at longer ranges.  Too much magnification can make it slower to acquire targets.  Adjustments values need to be appropriate for the type of precision necessary for the type of shooting.  I think a decent 3-9 would cover the average deer or hog hunters needs.
Optics are very much a personal preference. always recommends that you always try to buy the highest quality optics you can afford.
3.  does the colt rail gun have a throated barrel?
Shawn:  Yes and a polished feed ramp.
4.  How did the Unertl scope hold up in tropical climate?
Shawn:  The Unertl in the war in Vietnam did tend to fog up at time in the rainy season.  But this isn’t the flaw that it seems to be, John Unertl designed the scope to be very easy to repair and worked on by the end user.  So the Unertl is easily taken apart and can be dried off or wiped dry and cleaned with simple tools.  Even the cross hair was designed to be replaceable by the end user with anything suitable in the event of failure.  With those in mind, you could seal the scope yourself, at the cost of no longer being able to do field expedient disassemble.  Other then that, the Unertl scope was very difficult to break or render unusable.
5.  can i own a krinkov if it has no stock
Howard:  You can own an AK pistol.  For example the Draco and the SLR106-47.  However I do not recommend this setup as they are heavy and awkward.  Shooting them with out a sling for stabilization is also awkward, best used for turning money(ammo) into noise.
6.  Is the Colt 901 an AR10
Howard:  No.  While the 901 is a 308 AR like the AR10s of old.  However now the term AR10 refers specifically to the trademarked Armalite (Eagle) brand .308 rifles.  The Armalites mostly use a M14 style mag.  Often you will see people refer to the lesser DPMS (Panther) .308s as AR10s.  These are not AR10s but a whole different model.  No one with a premium .308 such as a LaRue OBR, Colt 901, KAC EMC or SR25, GAP, LWRC REPR, POF, etc call their .308 variant an AR10.  Only people who have purchased the cheaper DPMS tend to want to call it by a most expensive models trademark.
7.  What ammo does the USMC scout snipers use?
Shawn:  Ammo used in all USMC sniper system is the M118LR.  175 grain Serria hollow point boat tail bullet and Lake City match brass.  Of course, other loads like ball or tracer can be used in specialty or emergencies situations.
8.  Will the Magpul BAD lever work on the Sig 716?
Howard:  No.
9.  Surefire 60 round magazine stripper clip?
Shawn:  The Surefire mags will accept stripper clips when loaded with a stripper clip guide.
Howard:  The Stripper clip guide is often called a “spoon”.

Unnecessary “Upgrades”

It is common for a firearms enthusiast to ‘upgrade’ a firearm after they get it.  The question is if each change done to the firearm is really an upgrade or not.

Plenty of changes can be made to most firearms to add capabilities, improve ergonomics, etc.  However often people are changing things just for the sake of change, or make questionable upgrades that are sometimes downgrades.

Some examples.  New Beretta 92FS pistols come with some plastic parts.  Some owners on gun forums remove the “cheap junk” plastic guide rod and install a “superior metal guide rod”.  The plastic guide rod replaced the metal one as an upgrade because it can flex and still work, while if the metal guide rod gets bent, it can prevent functioning.  The plastic guide rod also has clearance space for sand or gunk thus allowing functioning in adverse conditions.  These owners are downgrading their pistol while thinking that they are upgrading it.  A similar thing is often done with 1911s.  For quite some time full length guide rods were considered an almost mandatory upgraded.  Now we know that in many cases, you are better off with a standard GI style recoil spring setup.  Even with the Glocks, you often see new owners want to “upgrade” the recoil spring guide rod.

With the AR15 and the AK family of weapons owners will often change out furniture, or make other changes to try and achieve a different look.  Before spending your money, why not take a minute to consider if you really need that $50 dollar pistol grip, or that $200 dollar butt stock.  While most all of these changes are nice, decide if you really need them.  Consider if you really want an opposing lawyer showing a jury your pistol with its Punisher logos on it.  Will it really be so cool at point in time?  Will those aluminium pistol grip be comfortable in hot weather, or when its left out in the sun?  Is putting a several hundred dollar quad rail on a rifle you don’t plan to mount any accessories on really worth while?

Make sure that the changes you make to your firearms are actually improvements, not potential problems.  Each change should be thought out, and improve either the capabilities, functionality, or ergonomics of a firearm.

GunVault Mini and Multi Deluxe safes.

Duncan Larsen submitted this article.

GunVault Mini and Multi Deluxe safes.

Having a firearm that is readily accessible and safely secure from unwanted access can be a challenge sometimes.   You must weigh the ease of access in an emergency, so you can deploy your firearm quickly against a threat, as well as the safety of others who you don’t want to have access to a firearm.  For years this was not too much of a concern for me.  I had a few firearms in my night stand drawer and I had no kids around the might want to snoop.  Times have changed and I needed to upgrade to a safer mode of protecting the access to the defensive firearms in the home.   I did a lot of research on what looked like it would work. I had seen a lot of the cheap, complicated, and hard to quickly access safes. I was getting discouraged on the options out there when I found the GunVault series of safes. I purchased the single handgun safe, the GunVault Mini Deluxe.

The GunVault Mini Deluxe has several key features that I want in a quick access safe.  It is very easy to use, has an internal light, is large enough for a full sized handgun with light and spare magazine.  The best feature is, the Deluxe model in these safes have both batteries and an external power adapter. Mine came with an AC wall adapter. This is key in case of power loss in the home and it also helps the batteries to last longer.  I have had this particular Mini Deluxe for three years and I just recently replaced the batteries.  The batteries still worked, but it is recommended they be replace yearly.  This safe has been used basically on a daily basis, opening and closing it repeatedly over the last three years. I have been very impressed with how it is holding up on daily use. The safe has a sixteen (16) steel gauge housing and weights about nine (9) lbs.  The inside is nicely, full foam padded. It is easy to know when one of the kids has messed with it as there is a tamper light to let you know when the wrong code has been used.

The GunVault Deluxe safes have a tamper proof spring loaded door.  When you punch in your code the door springs open quickly for fast access.  The door is very forceful when opening.  There are rubber stops in front of the door to avoid it slamming on to the surface the safe is on. The finger code pads are large within a handprint, have a positive feel and audible tone .  I have accessed the safe in the middle of the night, with just ambient light,  under stress with no problem. The safes also come with a key incase of total power loss.  This key is specific to the safe you have and will not open other GunVault safes.  The safes come with mounting gear and a mounting diagram for securing the safe to the floor or a night stand.  I prefer to place four (4) rubber pads on the corners of my safes instead of mounting them.  The rubber pads insure the safe does not slide on the surface it’s on.

I have been so impressed with the Mini Deluxe safe that I now have several located throughout my home.  I recently purchased the Multi Deluxe safe, basically it’s the same in quality and performance. It’s a lot larger, weighing about fourteen (14) lbs. The Multi Deluxe can handle several firearms and the gear you want to put in it.   I was able to easily place four full size handguns and spare magazines in the Multi Deluxe.

The GunVault safes have been very good safes for me, some for several years.  I feel they are a very great option for the person who needs quick access to a firearm but wants the peace of mind that the gun is secure until it is needed.  I also feel the GunVault’s fit the lifestyle of the armed processional or Concealed Carry civilian who access’s a firearm everyday and wants that firearm safely secured in a reliable safe. While I have not gone through every feature of the Deluxe models, for the price they are hard to beat.  If you look around they can be found at or under one hundred dollars.  GunVault also offers standard models and biometric finger print activated models. The standard safes being almost the same price, but without the key feature of an outside power adapter, are not worth it.  The Biometric models will cost you on average about one hundred dollars more.


Colt 901 Part 4

In parts 1-3 Shawn has pretty much covered most of I would say.

Previously, I owned an Armalite AR10 model 10A4F and I replaced that with a LMT MWS which I quickly got rid of.

The Armalite was about $1500, and was a nice rifle.  However with its 20 inch barrel, A2 stock, and longer then AR15 action, it make for a long almost awkward rifle.  While it did deliver its guaranteed 1.5 MOA, it was neither the handy battle rifle I would have liked, nor a semi-auto precision rifle.  So I replaced it with a LMT MWS.  The MWS had some very nice features, but I had some issues with mine, and sold it quickly.

Now having tried the Colt 901, I much prefer the Colt over the previous two rifles I owned.  The 901 is surprisingly soft shooting.  That’s not to say that it doesn’t have recoil, but that it is a smooth impulse.  Perhaps the M1 Garand might be a good comparison.  The Armalite I owned was not that pleasant to shoot, and the MWS, while nice, was still a much sharper recoil impulse.  When shooting the 901 off of a Harris bipod, the rifle recoils straight back, making it easy to watch my impacts through the NightForce 2.5-10×24 scope I was using.  When shooting offhand with an Aimpoint T1, the 901 recoiled smoothly up and back, I want to say that the recoil impulse is smoother than shooting a M4 with M855.  I don’t want to make some claim that the rifle has light recoil, but I find it extremely fun and easy to shoot.

I have noticed some people questioning the choice of the Vortex flash hider on the 901.  I know it to be an excellent choice.  16 inch barreled 308s have a good deal of flash and blast depending on ammunition used.  This pronged flash hider helped break up the flash and concussion from the shorter barrel, and makes the rifle much more pleasant for those around the shooter.  While a pronged flash hider will ring(most noticeable when dry firing), it is not noticed when firing the rifle.

The 901 is not light, but in my opinion, it balances well.  The Armalite rifle felt very nose heavy.  The MWS, while similar weight, had most of its weight in its barrel, making the rifle far more awkward then the 901.  The 901 handles very similarly to a MK18/CQBR with Daniel Defense RIS II and a suppressor.  It is not light, but it feels far closer to that of a M4 then the MWS.  I found the 901 easier to shoot well then the MWS.

On a side note, when I tried DAG surplus 308 in the LMT MWS, I could only get 6 inch groups at 100 yards with it.  It got to the point where people were making fun of me with my performance with that rifle.  This same ammo gives me 2.5 inch groups in the 901.  So far, in my limited testing, the 901 seems less ammo sensitive then the MWS.

I spent much of the time shooting the rifle with a Magpul CTR stock, the VLTOR IMOD that came with it works very nicely as well.

The Colt 901 is an awesome rifle, but it is not perfect.  So there are some things you should know before you buy one.

1.  The 901 uses a non-standard height front sight, so it comes with a Troy micro rear sight.  Standard AR15 rear BUIS will not work unless you use a rail mounted front sight on the monolithic top rail.

2.  The area where the trigger pins are on the lower is reinforced.  This means if you replaced the trigger, you will want to use the slightly longer trigger pins that come with the 901s trigger.

3.  5.56 PRI Gasbuster charging handles will not work with the 901 lower.  It is unknown if the BCM gasbusting Gunfighter charging handles will work.

4.  The 901 comes with “Colt Spec” .308 PMags.  These Colt Spec mags have an over insertion prevention tab on them.  I primarily ran the 901 with standard Magpul 308 Pmags and had no issues.  When using the standard PMags, think just like using standard GI mags in an AR15, push into the mag well, then pull to make sure it is seated.  The Colt Spec mags are nice, but not mandatory.  With the upper removed, I found it was a non-issue.

5.  The quad rail on the 901 is tall and narrow.  I think that rail panels might not be a good choice for this rifle, but it does work well with ladder covers.  I think that LaRue index clips were a little too slick for the 901.  A Knights handstop and VFGs work well on the 901, but are lower from the bore then I am used too.(I mainly use the Daniel Defense RIS II rail).

6.  The 901 is nose heavy, however it is not too different then a M4 with accessories, or a SBR with suppressor.  I find it better balanced then many of the other .308 variants I have owned or used.

Please don’t read this list the wrong way, I HIGHLY recommend the 901.  It is good to know these sort of things before you buy the rifle.

What I am looking forward to most is having an SBR 901.  I am excited about having a 308 upper, and a short 5.56 upper in the same case, with a single .30 cal can I could run on both uppers.