I was going to write up something of value. . . but nah.
I am seeing if I can 3d print a 40mm projectile I could use. Right now it takes me an hour to print 1 projectile. This first one (v1) looks like the bands will engage the rifling ok, but the base is to narrow to stay in the casing.
Version 2 just finished printing as I typed the last sentence.
That looks like it might work.
I’m fairly sure there is nothing else of interest in that photo.
The major, and I mean major, downside to these 3d printed projectiles is that they are super light. About 20 grams. The chalk training round is somewhere over 100 grams. My reloading scale only goes up to 100 grams and I won’t have access to a precision scale that could tell me the real weight until next week.
At best, these projectiles would be 1/5 the weight of the real deal. Most likely, much much less than that. Thus the sights wont work and who knows where these rounds will go. The weight distribution will also not be centered due to the random infill pattern. But they should go “thump” and go down range, so I have 4 printing right now.
I was thinking about throwing some 20 gauge lead round balls in there to get the weight up, but I realized the way I wanted to do it would still leave it too light. I might design v3 to be two parts that screw together, and the fill it with lead shot. Making it smaller & simpler parts I could give it solid infill to perhaps make the weight distribution more consistent.
I dunno. I want to try shooting some of these really light one first and see what they do.
I was looking at an argument about how to zero the M16/M16A1. One group said you set up a target at 25m and adjust your impact to be 2.4 cm below your point of aim. The other group says that you are suppose to set up your target at 25m and set your impact to be your point of aim.
Much disagreement and people quoting manuals.
Well. . . . I might not be a “printer repairman”, but I can read. The M16/M16A1 has TWO apertures. Not one, but TWO. And guess what? You can zero it two different ways. You can use the unmarked aperture at 25m impacting 2.4 cm low, or you can use the L marked aperture and zero at 25m and shoot point of aim point of impact.
That doesn’t sound any fun. Perhaps we should just shoot at 42m using the unmarked aperture. Wouldn’t that be easier?
The left wants a boogaloo more than you do.
The left hates gun owners, the left hates cops. They dream of the day when they could stay at home and watch CNN to see gun owners and cops killing each other in the streets.
Shawn has written up a fair bit of instructional stuff for this site. I’ve also written a few things where I act like I know what I am talking about. Unfortunately I worry that too much good content we have created has been sorta lost to the public in our archives. Hopefully they would show up in a google search. But who knows for each individual article.
When I get around to it, I want to make a “tutorial” or “training” page on LooseRounds.com. There would be a curated list of the instructional stuff we have written up. That way, say if I wrote a post about how to zero a M16A1 sight, it would be listed in some appropriate category on the tutorial page.
Some other time though, I am just goofing off right now.
Oh, and since I prefer freedom units. 25m is sometimes rounded to 1000 inches. 42m would be about 46 yards, or .21 furlongs.