It seems like every CORE15 AR15 I have seen at the range has jammed at some point while I was watching owner use it. I don’t have the evidence to say damning things about the company, but I haven’t seen anything that would let me say good things about them. A sample size of a half dozen isn’t good, but seeing a half dozen that appear to have issues isn’t comforting.
I have helped a few shooters clear squib loads recently.
When ever you fire a shot that has reduced recoil, or an “inaudible pop” it is good to check to see if your round has actually left the bore. Firing another round after a squib can have disastrous consequences. Replacing a barrel is not cheap, however being injured by an exploding firearm can be even more expensive.
Case head separations are usually rare, but I have been seeing more of them, and reading about them more. Perhaps due to the last ammo panic people are trying to get more uses out of each case.
Spending a few dollars on a broken shell extractor may be well worth while.
High recoiling firearms can be punishing. Nearly every day at the range we over hear someone complain about firing shotguns or Mosins. Sometimes the recoil causes other issues. People can drop a firearm after a surprising amount of recoil, and that recoil can break things. For example this S&W scope mount came off a S&W .460. The resulting flying scope hit the owner on his head and dented the Leupold.
The owner explained that previously he was having issues with the screws in the scope rings breaking. I keep thinking that if that recoil is breaking screws, what it must be doing to the owner of the firearm.
Now that I have vented and had time to cool down about the disappointing aspects of the G42, let’s look at some of the new things going on inside it. The new G42 has several unique, redesigned, internal components, that are very different from all other Glock’s. Right off the bat, you can see it is a 2 pin design, like the old Gen2 Glock’s, with a Gen4 magazine release and stippling. I have completely stripped this G42 to give you an idea of what the new internal parts are and how they fit in the G42. When completely stripping the G42, you will notice some of the parts will fit together differently as well. While I will not go into a complete tutorial on how to strip your Glock down, it is not extremely difficult and you can learn how to properly do it with some quality research.
When stripping the G42 completely down, pay close attention to the parts that are significantly different in their design and placement in the G42, compared to other Glock Models . Below are several pictures of a completely stripped G42 and the new internal parts.
Slide Stop Lever:
You will need to take the Locking Block out first to remove the Slide Stop Lever, after removing the frame/trigger pin.
Firing Pin Safety:
The Firing Pin Safety is completely different and can only go in one way. The notch on the left side of this picture faces the Firing Pin.
Trigger Mechanism Housing, Bar & Spring:
The new Trigger Spring and Trigger Bar will fit together very differently with the Trigger Mechanism Housing. The Trigger Spring has a metal hook that the “T” of the Trigger Bar will need to fit under for reassembly.
The Connector, although it looks to be identical is much shorter as the Trigger Mechanism Housing is smaller. The standard Glock Connectors will not be compatible. This answers the questions of those wanting to put a (-) 4 lbs. OEM Connector in the G42. As the Trigger Spring is a redesign, the standard Glock spring options ( NY1) are also not an option.
The Trigger Spring is more difficult to remove from the housing then the standard Glock Trigger Spring. The housing has a bar and notch system for removing and replacing the Trigger Spring. While removing it was easy, replacing it was a little hard.
Extractor Depressor Plunger:
The Extractor Depressor Plunger is basically the same, but instead of a large flat head, it tapers down to a firing pin look.
If you are not a Glock Armorer, Gunsmith or you are very unfamiliar with stripping your Glock down, I would not recommend any disassembly past regular field strip maintenance. Most people will have no need to break the firearm down to this level. 90% of the G42 parts look just like the Glock parts you will be familiar with. When I was stripping the G42, I did not expect some of the parts to fit together so differently. I realized I did not pay as much attention as I should have and it took me a few minutes to get it back together.
For recent part changes Glock has made in new production G42’s, check out the article linked below.
The Scorpion EVO 3 S1 is the civil legal version of the EVO 3 A1; it comes in a simple cardboard box with two 20 rounds translucent magazines, a bore snake and the manual. This version not only is semiauto but it’s also chambered for the weird 9×21 IMI since the 9Paral is still banned for us poor civilians…
The first thing you notice about this new SMG/PDW is that it’s entirely made of polymer (glass-filled Nylon) but it’s actually heavier & more solid than it looks: (2.3Kg empty). The only metal parts are the barrel & bolt assembly, FCG and sights.
Once you handle this little carbine it’s amazing how solid it feels. There’s absolutely no play between the parts. The weapon is also extremely well balanced making it easy to maneuver indoors and around the corners.
The adjustable stock has 3 length positions and can be folded on the right side. To lock the stock folded it has to be fully collapsed (there’s one little hook on the buttstock that engages the receiver). When the stock is folded it doesn’t interfere with any controls. Another interesting feature is that the stock can also be removed without tools. The Evo is so compact that will fit nicely my Maxpedition Larkspur bag leaving enough space for mags and ammo.
All the controls are ambidextrous except the bolt release which is located only on the left side.
The selector lever reminds the one on the HK G36 in shape and clicks positively into both positions.
The mag release is located forward the trigger guard on both sides; it can be activated either with the trigger finger or the thumb of the reloading hand.
The charging handle is reversible and not reciprocating.
The pistol grip angle and size is very similar to the old M16A1 one; the trigger reach is adjustable by loosening one hex screw and sliding the grip back or forward.
The EVO comes with a long Picatinny rail on top of the receiver and three more rails on the handguard at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions in order to accommodate flashlights, lasers and aiming devices. All the rails are part of the mold and not removable.
The CHF barrel is 196mm long with 1/10’’ twist and the muzzle is threaded M18x1 for a sound suppressor. The factory muzzle device is a simple bird cage style that works more as muzzle protector than a flash hider or muzzle brake.
The iron sights are manufactured by LPA in Italy; the rear one is adjustable in both elevation and windage. According to the manual the maximum effective range of the Scorpion is 250m when fired from the shoulder.
Field stripping is achieved without tools by removing only one pin, which allows the trigger group to come out, like with the FN SCAR. Then the bolt assembly can be removed from the bottom of the upper receiver. Further disassembly is not required and not recommended.
I tested the Scorpion in a very short (only 7m) indoor range using some old Samson 123g FMJ, Fiocchi 123g RNCP and Fiocchi 148g TCCP Subsonic. The Evo ran fine with all of them.
The trigger is a single stage and not adjustable, very similar to the one on my factory Colt AR15: not too heavy and not gritty at all.
While at the local Cabellas I spied a great deal on some FDE aluminum USGI magazines for around 9 bucks. Being a fan of cheap USGI mags and FDE, I thought this was too good a deal to pass on. I also wanted to test them out being I had not had any time with the D&H brand of mags.
So far, the mags are working fine. The follower is not a magpul follower or a version of it. But, it does work fine so far. The color of the mags does match up pretty well with other FDE items. I admit I do really like FDE over black since black really does stick out like a sore thumb and I personally find FDE/Coyote tan aesthetically pleasing.
You can see how well the mag compares to Colt’s FDE factory anodizing, along with all the other FDE items on my carbine.
The bad news is. The coating, and that is what it is, comes off very fast and very easy. This is not something I care about since condition of finish is not even on my list of things I don’t care about but, there does not seem to be anything other then this coating. The finish seems more like krylon painted mags with no real finish underneath. It is just straight up metal under the cheap useless tan finish ( paint?). After only a few time using them mags, they are already large bright silver showing through. Even rough rubbing with a finger nail will start to wear it off. The mags work fine, but I could have paid 12 bucks for a Okay brand of Colt mag and painted it with a can of krylon. I would not buy these if unless you ran across a bunch for 8 bucks and did not mind the coating stripping off when you looked at it mean. I would buy the much better DSG FDE mags if I wanted a tan mag that was reliable, tough and had a finish that would not come off.