There are many of us that shoot corrosive ammo, sometimes because its surplus is cheaper, or because all the factory ammo we can get in some rarer calibers is corrosive. The problem is rust. Shooting corrosive ammo leads to rust.
For example, I shoot 5.45×39. All the 7n6 surplus ammo is corrosive. Now some other people on the web talk about how they can shoot thousands of rounds over multiple sessions with out rust but if you look at where they live, it tends to be very dry areas. Here in Florida, I find rust on parts with in hours of shooting. I’ve found rust on chrome lined, melonited, diamondbonded, ionbonded and nickleboroned parts. So cleaning is crucial.
It doesn’t matter so much how you clean, but that you clean away the corrosive salts. That brings me to my point. Many shooters I know use Windex to clean after shooting corrosive ammo. They swear by the Ammonia in Windex. Thing is, Windex uses Ammonia-D. Ammonia-D is pretty much water and alcohol.
Now if Windex works for you, don’t stop using it. But if you are looking for an ammonia based cleaner, find something that uses real ammonia.
TinHatRanch posted a video on Youtube where he shot sandbags with common rounds. I was very surprised at how effective the sandbags are at stopping those common rounds. However I do know that wet sand will not stop rounds as well as dry sand.
From the 1918 book he authored The American Rifle
In my work in the Army I often come across men of a rather low order of intelligence whom no amount of practice will teach to shoot, chiefly because they have never learned how to use their brains. Any man of ordinary intelligence, who is not physically handicapped, can become a good shot. To become an expert shot requires both a good body and a good brain. Most persons have the idea that eyesight is the important factor. Fair eyesight is of course essential, and may be obtained either naturally or by the aid of well-fitted glasses.
There are five essentials which must be attained in order that one may be able to shoot accurately. All instruction in rifle shooting is aimed at perfecting one’s knowledge and execution of these five essentials. These are as follows:
1. Aiming. One must be able to aim consistently, aiming each shot exactly the same. This requires the training of the eye in the correct alignment of the sights and target until the view or picture that they form becomes so indelibly impressed upon the retina of the eye that whenever the aim is the least bit incorrect it will be noticed at once.
2. Holding. One must be able to hold the rifle steadily in the various firing positions. First, a good, well-balanced position must be learned, and then this must be practiced until it becomes perfectly natural, and one acquires steadiness in it. Usually this takes longer to learn than the other essentials.
3. Trigger squeeze. It matters little how accurately one aims, and how steadily one holds, if, just as the rifle is discharged, one gives a convulsive jerk to the trigger which deranges both aim and hold. The trigger must be squeezed so that the rifle is not disturbed, does not move a particle, before the recoil comes.
4. Calling the shot. Literally calling to the coach the exact spot where one’s sights were aligned on the target at the instant that the rifle went off. Of course one tries to hold steadily, but absolute steadiness is beyond the ability of most riflemen. The sights bob around a little with the best of us. We must catch with our eye the exact place on the target where the sights were aligned at the instant that the recoil blots out clear vision. This spot is where we expect the shot to strike. If the shot does not strike close to the point of call it shows that there is something the matter with either rifle, ammunition, or sight adjustment. If one has a good rifle and ammunition it indicates that a change in the sight adjustment is necessary.
5. Sight adjustment. The sights of the rifle must be adjusted so that the bullet will strike close to where one aims. Owing to factors which will be discussed later, almost all men require slightly different sight adjustment. Thus a rifle sighted in by one man is by no means correctly sighted for others, and rifles sighted in at the factory are never more than approximately correct. One must be able to adjust his sights so that the bullet will strike where his rifle is aimed; that is, where the shot was called.
Finally, one must learn to co-ordinate all these five essentials. He must learn to aim accurately, and at the same time hold the rifle steadily. While he is doing this he must be gradually increasing the pressure on the trigger, so that when the aim seems best, and the hold the steadiest, he can squeeze on the trigger the last ounce or so of pressure which will discharge the rifle. And while doing this he must not forget to catch the point where the sights were aligned at the instant that the rifle goes off. He must learn to concentrate his mind, and every bit of his will power on doing these four things, and doing them perfectly.
The secrets of good shooting are:
1. Know your rifle. Get a good rifle and stick to it. Do not be changing your rifle all the time. Never change to a new arm until you know the old one as perfectly as it is possible to know it. There is a very true saying, ” Beware of the man with one rifle.”
2. Pay the closest attention to every little detail.
3. Be careful. Lots of good scores are spoiled, and lots of game escapes, through carelessness alone.
4. Be accurate. You are handling an instrument of precision, but it will not avail you if you be not accurate yourself.
5. Don’t get excited. An excited man cannot hold a rifle steadily, nor will his aim be accurate. Excitement usually comes from a lack of confidence; that is, from a lack of practice.
6. Go slow. Especially at first, go slow. Many men who have been shooting for years will never make really good shots because they do things so fast, or so impulsively, that they do not get the required steadiness or accuracy. Do not attempt rapid fire until you have mastered the slow fire. Skill in slow fire never makes a man a poor rapid-fire shot; it is lack of practice in rapid fire.
Some men soon acquire a remarkable ability to shoot the rifle, but it must be remembered that to be really expert one must have his lessons so drilled into him that even when excited he will still continue to shoot well. This means that one must practice until shooting becomes second nature before he can really call himself expert. In every case where anything important is at stake in rifle shooting there will be a certain amount of excitement, physical exertion, and necessity for speed. Let the novice not think that because he has made a score which equals the record he is an expert. Let him try to duplicate his work after a hard climb up a steep mountain when a mountain sheep suddenly leaps up and is about to disappear over a ledge. Or again, on the battlefield, when he must beat the other fellow to it with a perfectly placed bullet or go under. Most beginners can become good shots after several weeks of daily intelligent practice. To become a real expert requires years of practice, study, and experience. If it were not so the game would not be worth the candle.
Considered one of THE authorities on shooting in his day, Whelen’s advice on shooting and rifles should not be taken lightly even today. His contributions on modern rifles and cartridges are greater then most know. The Colonel really pushed marksmanship in the Army in the days of the 1903 and was a part of the reason the then high performance .22 Hornet came into being along with the excellent M1922 training rifle in .22LR made around a 1903 rifle. You may not think this applies to using a carbine in the more modern styles, but it does. The basics are the basics and always apply. Knowing the basic shooting positions and mastering them is never wasted time.
Article submitted by M.
During a recent range day Shawn and I were discussing the popular urban legend of the shotgun as the ultimate home defense weapon. The most common reasons we’ve heard repeated for its use are that “you don’t even have to aim” and “you’ll kill all of them with one shot.”
While hardly a scientific test we figured we would give it a try.
We first tried the “you don’t have to aim” theory. We also did this one with birdshot as we’ve known some to believe it’s better for home defense situations.
For this one Shawn fired as he was bringing the gun up from a low ready position without trying to find or line up the sights. As you can see most of the pellets missed the target entirely, passing over the “bad guy’s” left shoulder. Those that did hit would have probably done nothing more than piss the “bad guy” off unless we scored a lucky eye hit that incapacitated him through blinding.
Next we tried buckshot to try the mythical “kill everyone in the room” lethality theory. We set three targets down as though three “bad guys” were advancing on an intended victim, and fired roughly in the center of the three to see if one blast would take them all out.
It did not. While we got some good hits on the center “bad guy” and would likely taken him out of the fight the left “bad guy” was completely untouched and the right only hit once with what probably would not have been an incapacitating injury.
I acknowledge this was not a scientific test in any way, however I still think it illustrates the fallacy of the popular shotgun HD myths. Yes you still have to aim and no it won’t vaporize attacking hordes with one shot. Don’t believe everything you hear at the gun counter.
I made a few changes to my work horse carbine lately and I am pleased with the results. I do not add new gimmicks to my guns very often. It has to be something pretty special for me to take it serious. Because of this attitude I am not big on a lot of Magpul products and that is why you very rarely see me review or buy anything from them that is not a mag or rear stock that does more then offer up a different look. Two things I bought recently are products I feel truly upgraded the performance of my carbine and myself or gave me more flexibility.
The first thing is the BCM Gunfighter MOD O grip. For a long time I stayed away from trying the new grips with the more vertical grip angles. To me, the leverage you get from the standard AR15/M16 grip made holding the gun and supporting its weight with one hand easier. But, I saw immediately the benefit of the more vertical grip giving a straighter rearward pull of the trigger. My long range bolt guns stocks all have a palm swelled pistol grip that is close to vertical so I am use to the better trigger control this gives. The angle also gives you an ability to really tuck the gun in and control it when working it fast. As a side perk, it is also more comfy when the gun is slung and you have your hand on the grip all day. It does not put much strain on your wrist from being turned at a more sever angle when you have the gun pointed at the dirt. It is really hard to explain until you try it yourself.
The storage compartment is pretty snazzy as well. It is as huge as your ex wife’s mouth. This is a substantial amount of storage room with no lousy divider in there either. I hate it when the company making the thin does not make it open enough to let me decided what I want in there. Not just two batteries or a bolt pin etc. It is sealed off and opens by depressing tabs on each side and its not likely to fall off like some other types.
The grip is hard plastic and tough with a texture for gripping. It also comes with a front section that tabs into place as you instal the grip that eliminates the little ouchy some people seem to think is un bearable from the rear of the trigger guard. It comes in two sizes for his or her pleasure. The MOD O does not have the thicker curved up back strap as the other model. I did not get that one because I had the feeling of those grips. I like the A1 and A2 grips just fine and the Tango Down was about the only other aftermarket grip i felt was worth it, so I have no use for the other model. I know it fits others hands better so , you can get it wit that feature if its something you need on your grip.
The other item is the nifty Tactical Link, Z-360 Sling Mount, GEN 2.
I like that mounting position for a sling. I have wanted to have this option for a while but a few things stopped me. One is, I do not want to break the Colt factory castle nut stacking. It is deep, well done and strong and I have no desire to mess with it just like i have no desire to mess with the factory gas system and I can not get everything back just right when I do. The next reason is other mounts seem to get in the way of my hand , and that really bugs me. Last, I wanted to me able to take it off fast, put it on without any special tools and I wanted it to not add a lot of weight.
The new mount meets all those needs for me. It is plastic unlike the Gen 1 model, but the QD point and screws have a stainless steel bushing inside that gives it all the support you need. It screws in together and lacks in tight. It does not add any real weight to the rear of the gun and it does nto run the risk of narking any special coating you have on the rifle. Most important is, it does not let the sling get in the way of my hand.
Below, you can see the SS socket for the sling swivel.
This sling mount allows mounting the sling at the rear and lets me swap to using the traditional points, the rear rail adn rear receiver points, or to use a two point VCAS sling as a one point with well thought out sling choices, all using the same sling. I really like being able to have 3-4 sling options quickly depending on my needs.
You can not completely collapse the M4 stock using the Tack link sling mount, but I do not care. I do not have any need to put the stock into the first position anyway. So, to me it is a non issue considering what you get with the thing.
Like all QD sling mounts, it is fast and easy to use. The mount gives a 360 degree swivel turn , so it is easy to go from strong side to alternate killing side fast and smoothly without the sling hanging up or being stopped from a stop. It is very fast and I am very , very fond of it. I have tried to pull the QD swivel out of the slot to see if it will fail but failed. I wanted to make sure the bushing would not pull out of the plastic, so I grabbed the sling and pulled on it with all I am worth while standing on the gun and pulling up. It stayed put. That is good enough for me.
Now, these are not “must have” and you can do fine without them. People used the A2 grip just fine for a long time. and the traditional sling mounting points. But, they do allow greater flexibility. If you can exploit that extra flexibility and need it, then these are great products. If you just want to “upgrade” your gun just to make it cooler, its probably best if you spend the money on the hard to find ammo and use it to practice with. That will help you decide just waht upgrades you really need and can take advantage of so you do not have to waste money trying new parts you may not like.
I have always really liked the look of the older WW1 and WW2 brown leather holster for pistols used by the US Military. Of course I didn’t like them enough to pay the price it would take to get an original but I had no use for a Cheater then dirt ultra craptastic copy. I had seen some really nice remakes on and off over the years but they might as well be original when it came to the price. Until a few months ago I found out about Pacific Canvas & Leather. I was told about this company after the editor bought a holster for his father in law. I ordered the standard model with double mag pouch for myself, and the Cavalry dismount version and pouch for my own Dad. The price for the holster ran around 40 dollars so I was apprehensive until I got the holster. They were everything I hoped for and more.
The leather, as you can see in the pictures are just the right color. It is soft and supple but also thick enough to protect what they hold perfectly. The stitching is strong and done right. The quality really did amaze me. There are copies that cost more but I just can not imagine paying more for a repro and get a level of quality so much better then these, to justify it. They are that good! I could easily seem them costing double the price and it still being a great deal considering the quality.
I had never seen the dismount holster before and was really pleased. I like the more common model everyone has seen the most. But the Cavalry model has some very cool features.
One of the things I really loved is the thigh tie down strap. Instead of the normal leather thong, is is a leather buckles and strap. You can see in the picture how much more secure and comfortable it would be. It would of course be slower then the thong, but man, that was back when they made stuff to last and be strong.
The dismount model is pretty much a “drop leg” holster. It hooks to the normal canvas web belt with the eyelets. It will not allow you to slide a regular pants belt through the back of it like the standard models do. To use it on a pants belt or Sam Brown belt, you have to buy the slider adapter that you see the hooks connected to in the picture above. The mag pouches have the open back to slide almost any belt through and need no adapter.
I put them on a brown leather belt and hiked around for a few days to see how they felt. They wore great. And its a nice nostalgic throw back just for fun and a way to carry around a plain government model with class. It is important to remember though, as cool as nostalgia and retro is though, that’s all it is. DO not mistake these as useful fighting holster for modern times when compared to what the industry and current training offers. So don’t get crazy or fall into the same wrong headed thinking as some of the guys declaring M16A1s and M1 Garands better for defending your self then modern rifles. Sure, they can, but anything will work in a p[inch when nothing else is around, but only a fool would choose them over something better and more efficient.
The company makes a lot more then these items , like sniper M1 variant leather cheek pads and WW2 repro shotgun shell pouches and holsters for other handguns and revolvers. So, maybe you can find something else you like.
Article submitted by Joshua Berry.
Ambidextrous Safeties seem to be all the rage right now. While there are plenty of companies putting their own spin on things one company stood out from the rest.
AMBI is owned by Mike Brown who is the inventor of the ADCOR B.E.A.R., but he has also created one of the most innovative safeties I have ever used. Mike was nice enough to send me one for review, and I was more than happy to do the reviewing.
Normally I am not a very big fan of ambi safeties, I often find them hitting my finger when I go to disengage the safety, or I snag it slightly so its half between safe, and half between fire causing my rifle to do nothing. This is one reason why this safety caught my attention in the way that it did,
Just looking at this safety it would appear to be a standard safety, but there is much more to it than that. It is designed to be quickly reversed on the fly, instead of your typical lever on both sides. This is done in a unique way using a detent that captures a spring loaded lever that engages the safety bar.
Switching from one side to the other is very simple. First I had to put it in the fire position, then you press this little level on the safety with a bullet or in my case a small hex wrench.
While pressing on on that button you push the safety up and it pops right off. Then you just go to the other side and it slides right on to the safety bar.
Their was one complaint I have about this lever though. I found that there was some slight wobble in the lever when it is attached, and This is to be expected given the design and it not being a one piece system or a screw mounted system. Because it is only held in place by a spring loaded lever this leads to some tolerences that can be a hair lose. It does not affect its ability to keep your rifle from being fired, and it does not make it a weakness in the system. I would say its more of an annoyance if you care about that.
Overall It really is a great safety. It functions just like your normal safety would, but it can be swapped to either side making it the most unique and innovative ambidextrous safety I have ever used. If you are like me and looking for an ambidextrous safety but do not want one that has 2 levers then this is the safety for you. I highly recommend it.
You can get them from ambiproducts.net for $58.53 putting in line with most aftermarket ambidextrous safties.